JB Weld Saves the Day!



Two Part Epoxy Glue for the Toughest Jobs

If you need to join two different materials together, or metal on metal, JB weld answers the demand quite nicely.  This two part epoxy provides an industrial strength bond and is relatively easy on the wallet.  In fact, when fully cured, the glue can only be removed by mechanical means such as grinding.  It is widly available at hardware and home improvement stores and is easy to mix.  Just sqeeze out equal portions of adhesive and catalyst and mix thoroughly.  It smells funny but is not overbearing and hardly noticeable.  The job I will discuss below was done with the JB weld for metals. 


Busted Plastic Refrigerator Shelf

Me and my wife were really frustrated with the prospect of replacing a broken shelf that no longer could support storage.  The fridge was there when we bought the place nearly 10 years ago.  Who knows the difficulty or cost of finding a replacement shelf that covers the bottom crisper drawers.  Whats more is it is really hard to justify spending wads of cash on a fridge that can fail at any time.  So  I though like MacGyver and improvised. 


Tools and Materials Needed

What I did was looked in the jungle that is my tool closet to find a solution.  The solution to my dilema presented itself as a lonely piece of 1/16 inch thick aluminum sheet scrap.  Very quickly, I realized how I was going about this improvised repair.  I needed a drill, drill bit, JB Weld two part epoxy, a Dremel rotary tool, aluminum scrap piece and a scrap piece of wood to use as a work surface. 


Drill the Holes and Sand the Aluminum

I loved the serendipity of this project.  Not only did I have the scrap aluminum that only needed trimmed by 1/2 an inch, I also found some sheet metal screws that I stashed from scrapping appliances.  I drilled two 3/16 inch holes in the trimmed aluminum sheet scrap where it would be mounted on the plastic frame.  The plastic felt cheap like it was likely ABS or polystyrene.  I knew if I drilled some holes a little smaller than the threads of the screw that I could manually screw them in like they were self tapping screws.  To do this, I drilled two matching 1/8 inch holes in the plastic frame.   The screws fit nicely into the aluminum but not to snug.  The real trick was getting a tight bond to the plastic.  I used an abrasive ginder bit on my Dremel to roughen up the underside of the aluminum plate.  This so the epoxy had a rough surface to bond to creating a much tougher bond. IMAG2720

Everything is in Place

I mixed up equal parts of epoxy with hardener in a portion the size of a dime.  I applied some to the roughened side of the aluminum, dropped in the screws, and positioned it onto the frame  so the screws would line up with the holes.  I promptly tightened the screws until they were tight.  This served two purposes, one it created a bond with the plastic, and two, it applied pressure to the aluminum plate against the frame.  This in important in gluing to clamp work pieces together tightly.  It squeezes out air bubbles but also creates a thinner adhesive layer assisting in shorter drying and curing times. 

After it was in place, I let the shelf air cure at room temperature for 24 hours.  I reinstalled in fridge, and placed the glass back on it.  Although not asthetically pleasing, it is as good as new.

Novel Metal Coat and Hat Racks


Practical Decor for Your Home

Decorative and unique wall mounted coat and hat racks are very practical as well as striking in appearance.  They can be used to tie in different decorative themes in a room while saving valuable space in the home.  Don’t just consider these coat and hat racks as only a winter item.  They are usefull for purses, handbags, and lightweight backpacks as well.  They would also work in organizing necklaces and chains. 


Some Racks have a Definite Theme

If you are truly looking for something unique then a coat/hat rack withing a specific niche might be the thing take for instance this very industrial upcycled hardware rack.  This would definately be a nice gift for the mechanic or DIYer in your family. 

Both of the racks featured in this blog are featured in the coat and hat rack section of my Etsy shop JTB Metal Designs.

Basecoats for Metallic Paints


Dry Brushing a Flat Base

Took me awhile to realize that the mica based metallic paints can be toned by the color and shade of the base coat underneath.  Although the paints may appear opaque they are actually translucent, especially the lighter colors and when sprayed.  At the end of the post Whimsicle Curves and Spirals Part One,  I had three different colored base coats of flat colors brushed on the primed metal.  The colors were chosen to get the most mileage of the top coat.  I picked a magent for the pearl magenta, ultramarine blue for the pearl blue, and a few coats of brownish yellow and yellow for the lime green pearl sphere. 


Light Coating For Good Adhesion

The results of those finishes can be seen on the second part of the whimsicle curves post.  This post will concern itself with the support base for the whimiscle curve sculpture.   I carefully added black to titanium white student grade paint until I got the medium gray shown above.  I thinned with enough water to aid in leveling while drybrushing to limit creating brush stroke texture.  I did not completely cover the primer 100% but I did prvoide enough base coat to tone the final silver coat as will as lay down a foundation to aid in adhesion.

The oil based primer that I applied is designed to accept both water based and oil based paints.  Even so, there are times when the first coats of  a sprayed coating of water based paint may be mildly repelled by the alkyd resin in the primer.  This can be seen in the higher peaks and protusions losing coverage to the pits and low level points on the surface.  For this reason, it is best to start with very light coats of sprayed finish.  My theory is that these paints are extensively thinned to pass through the spray equipment and the wetting agents may be compromised.  By dry brushing a base coat with a coarse brush, an acrylic matrix is formed when dry ready to accept the next coating.  As long as you do not add any mediums, the student grade paints dry to a nice satin finish.  This type of finish is what you need for subsequent coats of sprayed paints.


Createx Pearl Silver Applied

Here is the support base with a top coat of Createx Pearl Silver airbrsuh paint.  The gray under coat medrated the silver and toned it to a medium silver.  It is a nice color that goes with the theme of the entire composition without stealing the focus.

Whimsicle Curves and Spirals Part 2



Iridescent Topcoat Applied

In the first part of this blog entry on Whimsicle Curves and Spirals, I covered the welded construction followed by a base coat to tone the finish. By far the most spectacular result was observed while airbrushing the magenta Pearl Ex onto the magenta base coat.  Note the hot pink shade with purplish iridescence in the photo below.


This really brings focus to the sculpture.  The interior supporting curve needed a pearl finish but more subdued.  The Createx pearl blue airbrush paint was well suited for this task.



Continuing in my theme of using different colors for the bases, I applied a Createx silver pearl to the base.  Not as reflective as I like yet still nice.  I first dry brushed a grey base coat to assist with bonding and toning of the top coat.



Pearl Lime Sphere

Originally, I was just going to paint the solid steel ball gold.  Seeing that the base was silver, I thought it would dull the effect of the eye popping fushia spiral I worked so hard to create.   I remembered I had a small bottle of pearl lime airbrush paint.  This stuff looks fluorescent it is so bright.  It blows most golds right out of the water.

This colorful sculpture will bring bling to any decor.  It is available in my Etsy shop.